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Welcome to my first web update on my RUSH CW460 build, coinciding with Chapter 1 of the mega-series in the May issue of Kit Car magazine.
As with all my builds, planning is the key, and in the first magazine feature I run through my decision processes for specifying all the major components for my RUSH: chassis, engine, differential, body spec’ etc. In addition, the build environment is prepared, with the purchase of new tools and, of course, the mini fridge and TV! As you will have read, it is a worthwhile process and ensures a project starts off on the right foot. Consequently, the actual spanner work will commence in earnest next month allowing me to expand here on how you can accurately budget and plan a kit car build. Apart from avoiding potential overspends this process ensures you make all the right decisions prior to lifting a single spanner. The following feature is self-explanatory and includes many lists (highlighted in red) in which you can add the estimated component costs of your own project. Once you have completed the entire process, all the subtotals can be added to give you a final budget. Planning a kit car build the Nigel Dean way The reason for planning and trying to accurately budget a kit car build is pretty obvious, but you would be amazed how many builders skip this important step. The problem is that once you are halfway through a build, giving up is not a viable option. Part-built kits are worth a fraction of the money invested; so if you have an overspend you just have to bite the bullet, tell her indoors and get on with it.
So unless you are single and have a large bank account, it seems to make perfect sense to plan. Yes, it’s dull I know, but as it may just save you thousands of pounds. I have prepared several tables for you to complete as we go through the guide. Somewhere to build As with the end of a build there are hidden costs right at the start. There is obviously no better place to begin than the premises to actually build the car. Most builders will have a private garage, but a few might have to rent and this should be a cost added to the build (otherwise you’re cheating already)! I would allow no less than 12 to 18 months rent for our purposes. Once located, the garage or building needs to have electricity and decent lighting. If it hasn’t, don’t mess around with extension leads from the house, get it installed permanently. Tools Most kit car builds require a fair selection of hand and power tools. A few require welding equipment but this is the exception to the rule. Unless you have a decent selection, the most cost effective approach is to simply buy a tool chest combination from suppliers such as Sealey.
These are relatively inexpensive (£300 mark) and will have almost every single tool you will need neatly stored in a portable cabinet. Add to this a pillar drill (£75), a bench grinder (£20) and a decent vice (£25) and you should have everything you need. Finally, ensure you have a solid work bench, also obtainable from companies such as Sealey. Garage rental for entire build period Somewhere to build and tools total
When deciding what car to build you will probably visit several kit manufacturers. The cost in time is not included here - you are having fun, after all - but I have included the petrol. This will also apply to collecting the car once you have made a choice. The chances are you will have to either hire a trailer or van at this stage. Most kit car manufacturers do not offer a delivery service. Apart from picking up the initial components, i.e. chassis, suspension etc you will probably have a reason for at least another visit to get bulkier items such as the bodywork. This will probably require that van or trailer yet again. Petrol for visiting kit car manufacturers Research and parts collection total
This is by far the largest section and the one where most builders get it wrong. The reason for this is due to the sheer number of components that a kit car is comprised of and it’s so easy to overlook multiple items. Add to this the overwhelming urge to up the specification as you go through the build and it’s easy to see how you could be out by thousands of pounds. To try and make this as clear as possible I have split the build down into sections. Some items will apply to all types of kit, such as an exhaust system for example, whereas others only apply to a particular type of car. Just enter zero into the rows not applicable to your build.
These are probably the first items you will buy. Some manufacturers will include suspension and uprights in with the chassis price, others will ask you to order them separately. The cost of such components can be extremely expensive and this is where comparing prices from different kit manufacturers can be very difficult.
At this stage you will also have to decide if you want a finish on the chassis and suspension arms (if one is offered), for example powdercoating or paint. Some manufacturers, such as Westfield, even have a chromium-plated option for the springs and suspension arms. Chassis Chassis and suspension total
All kits need bodywork and what I have included in this section are the fibreglass panels and associated fixings and hinges. The glass is covered elsewhere because not all kits include it with the bodywork. Some manufacturers also include the option of coloured gel coat which can be polished at an additional cost. You need to decide at this stage if you want the car painted or in gel. If it’s the latter, how much preparation do you want the manufacturer to do; for example, remove flash lines, cut holes for lights?..... Fibreglass bodywork, including gel coat cost Bodywork total
Steering components are probably the first item on our list you may obtain from a donor rather than new. If this is the case, estimate the cost of refurbishing each part.
The initial outlay for the donor will be added to the final totals at the end. Steering wheel and boss Steering total
This will vary from kit to kit depending on which axle is driven. For example, front wheel drive cars will not have a propshaft. In this case just add a zero to the relevant entry. Gearboxes and differentials are probably the most expensive parts of a car after the chassis and engine, so do your research well in this area. For example, a secondhand Sierra diff can be £50, whereas a new one is over £1000! Another possible pitfall is not including items such as the slave cylinder and bell housing conversion. These are expensive, so get an all-in price from your supplier. Differential (if separate to the gearbox) including mounting kit Drivetrain total
It is advisable to renew the entire braking system on a kit car, with the possible exception of the callipers. These are expensive and will need refurbishing.
Some kits will give you an option of AP Racing brakes which can add thousands to a budget. Think carefully about this one. Front and rear callipers (or drums) Braking total
This is always an odd one and never neatly falls into any category. The pedal assembly is costly, especially when you have to include a master cylinder for the brakes and clutch. In some cases the latter will be a cable, but as these can be over £30 ensure you include them below. Pedal
assembly including mounting kit Pedal total
The sky’s the limit here and it’s all to do with power. The more tuned your engine, the more fuel and cooling it will need. Fuel injection is also expensive, especially when it comes to pumps and filters. If you can afford it, always go for a high specification radiator and fan. There is nothing worse than overheating on a hot summer’s day. Fuel cap and tubing to tank Fuel and cooling systems total
Big budget and room for big errors here. The most reliable approach is to get a price for a turnkey unit, and I mean turnkey. Ensure everything is included: air filter, flywheel, clutch assembly etc. If you want to dress up the engine get all the prices up front as you can get seriously carried away.
This obviously also applies to tuning. Horsepower costs money which tends to follow an exponential curve! Finally, include engine mounts and the exhaust system. This latter item is best in stainless steel but will obviously cost more. Turnkey engine Engine and exhaust system total
All component cars need lighting and most manufacturers will have a kit on offer. However, ensure they all meet SVA requirements and come with bulbs and mounting brackets/fasteners. These things all add up if you have to source them later. Headlights Lighting total
Literally a can of worms this one. It all depends on what is fitted to the car and all I can do here is give you a few pointers as regards the main items. A good tip is don’t try and save money on the loom. It may look expensive but is good value compared to the hassle of making your own. Loom including fuse boxes Electrics total
Wheels and tyres Here is another area to shop around and save yourself a few pennies. However, don’t compromise on quality for a few pounds. Your kit manufacturer will probably have a very good deal due to buying in bulk, so don’t dismiss the standard items immediately.
Also remember to add the cost of a spare and fitting the tyres. Hubs
(including the spare) Wheel and tyre total Glass and body trim I have lumped together a selection of high cost items here ranging from the windscreen to wing mirrors, from bumpers to roll bars. Most will come from your kit manufacturer, so pricing should be simple.
Glass and body trim total
Moving to the interior, you have three main options: DIY, purchase the trim kit and fit yourself, or get an upholsterer to do the lot.
The latter is cheaper than you may imagine and the first option much more difficult! Other items to remember are the rubber sections needed to seal the doors, boot and bonnet. Carpet
set including boot Interior trim total
This is the final section for components and always comes as a nasty surprise. Weather gear is not cheap and many builders simply don’t bother. Hood
and side screens including fitting kit Weather gear total On the road costs With the totals for the car’s components complete, here is a rundown of the items to get it on the road:
Engine,
differential and gearbox oil, brake fluid On the road costs total The final cost Transpose all the above totals to the following table and add up the cost. Somewhere
to build and tools Once you have the total, add 5% for small items such as glue, fasteners and the inevitable odd luxury you see during the build that you simply cannot resist! This
is the exact process I have applied to my RUSH build and I’m
pretty confident I’ll avoid an overspend. However, follow the series
and time will tell. |
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